Method of making shoes



P 1930. J. GOULDBOURN ET AL Y 1,776,430

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed April 22, 1925 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fig. 2.

Sept. 23, 1930. v gQ U El AL 1,776,430

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed April 22. 1925 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Sept. 23,1930. I J, GOULDBOURN ET AL 1,776,430

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed April 22, 1925 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Sept. 23, '1930. J, GQULDBOURN ET AL 1,776,430

METHOD OF MAKING sHoEg Filed April 22, 1925 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 o Patented Sept; 23, 1930 STAT-ES g roEAtrIoN on NEW JERSEY PATENT oFFIcEY JosErH eoULnEoU-EN AND, FREE nrcKs, or LEICESTER, ENGLAND, ASSIGNORS 'ro UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF IPATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A COR- v METHonoE Maxine sHo s V Applicationvfiled April 22, -1925 ,'Seria1 No. 25,127, and in Great Britain May19, 1924.

This invention relates-to the manufacture of bootsand shoes, hereinafter-referred to for convenience as shoes, and has for an a shoe factory methodsand equipment.

- To the above and other ends, the invention l permanently to the insole at object the production of shoes of a uniform standard of excellence with substantial econom-ies as comparedwith the usual methods of shoe manufacture.

It is a more particular object of the invention to eliminate the need for much of the skill and care required here tofore, especially in pulling-over and lasting operations,"with a consequentsav'ing in labor cost, while at the same time insuring auniformly high class product. The invention also aims to disturb as littlegas possible,

' consistently with the objects in view, present provides anovel method of making shoes whereby the shaping of theupper materials is effected without the need for any high degree of skill or judgment onthe part of the workman. In accordance with the practice herein illustrated, the upper is molded at the toe and heel ends substantially tothe shape desired for the finished shoe and is-fastened both ends before the shoe ismounted on a last, the upper being somewhatstretched lengthwise in the heel end molding operation, and thereafter a last is inserted and the upper is further stretched lengthwise by engagement of the last with its molded ends prior to the side lasting of the shoe. By thus molding the ends of the upper the need for ahigh degree of'skill on.

the part of the workman in the shaping of these portions ofthe shoe is dispensed with; and theends havingbeen molded and fasztened to the insole, all. that is needed to com.- "plete the lengthwise stretching of the upper to the required degree is 'to'mount theshoe on the last. The fastening of the upper permanently to the insole at the toe end as well n as at the heel end before thelast is inserted facilitates the use ofthe last to tension the upper without danger of relative displacement of the upperand the insole. it is preferred to fasten the molded ends of the upper along the sides of the shoe as the molding extends, i. e.,

of the last at the on shoes that are provided with tips.

It is contemplated that after the shoe has been mounted on the last the sides of the shoe or portions thereof may be lasted progressively as heretofore by the use, for ex ample, of a lasting machine of the handmethod type, although the invention is not limited to this manner of lasting the sides. It is found, however,-thatonlsome work bet ter results are secured by subjecting the fore part of the upper at the rear of the molded toe to an ope'rationin the nature of a pull ing-over operation prior to the side lasting of the shoe at the'rear of the forepart, and in one aspect the invention therefore includes the step of pulling the upper over the last in this location, preferably at the opposite sides simultaneously, and fastening it before lasting the shoe in the shank. This serves to conform the upper tightly to the contour top of the forepart between. the tip line and the instep, where there might otherwise be danger, on some work, that the upper by reason of its lengthwise tension would bridge the hollow of the last. 'j

In carrying outthe tion there is preferably utilized a type of last which comprises portions that are relatively is laced, and in one aspect of the invention it is contemplated that the stretching of the upper incidental to the introduction of the last Will be accomplished partly at least by expanding the last (i. e. straightening it ifit is a hinged last) beforethe upper is laced. Thereafter the last is preferably contracted to permit the lacing to be readily inserted, and thenexpanded again to stretch the upper further. In this manner the required stretch ing of the upper by the use of the last is easily effected in successive stages. v

The invention is herein illustrated in its application tothe manufacture of shoes of the McKay-sewed type in which the molded sucli'for example as an fat'the toe substantially'as far as the tip line methodof this inven toe is provided with an 'inturned flange formed tolie throughout its width upon the bottom face of the insole 'and fastened by tacks to the insole before the last is inserted. It will however, be. recognized thatinvariousnovel and usetul aspects the invention is not limited to the, manufacture of shoes of this particular type.

The invention will now be more particle lazrly; explained; by reference tothe accom panyin'g drawings, which illustrate various steps performed in accordance with one mode of procedure in carrying out the method, and

will thereafter be pointed outin. the claims,-

' In the'd'rawi'ngs,

Fig. 1 .is, a, view showing assembled upper materials: mounted: on a presenter which engages. the upper in jig-holes formed; therein forf presenting the upper in. exact predeter mined relation tomeanslfor molding the toe Fig. 2 is. a View illustrating how theupperv ispresented to mechanisml which may be uti.- lized. for mold-ingthe toe; s f

Fig. 3} is aview of someof the parts shown in, Fig. 2 aspositioned at the end of the toemolding operatiomr V Fig. AL illustrates how the upper: with-its toe end molded is assembled with an insole and. is, tensioned forwardly about a heel end;

fQI'l P par y t0 the heel end o e p e ai V Fig. 5 isia vlewshowing heel end. molding mechanismfand illustrating how the upperpositioned as. shown: in Fig. 4:. is molded and secured to the insole at its heel. end;

Fig. 6 illustrates; how the molded toe end 7 of the upper may next be fastened torthe insole; Flg.

and heel endsfastened to theinsole and with a hinged last inserted, and straightened in the;

" nismherein shown. for

shoe before the upper is laced; Fig.' 8, illustrates how the the lacing of the upper;

I Fig. 9. shows the shoe withits upperlaced and the last,againstraightened;

FigelO illustrates how the shoe-maybe next; SHbJQCtQd'tO a pullingover operation at the whereby the upper is mounted on the jig pins.

real- 0f the molded toe;

Fig.1l shows the shoe as it appears after it has .been pulled-over'in the-manner illustrated- 7 ing ofthe shoe along the-shank. V

AS, shown, in Fig,1,.theupper2, provided with jiqholes 3, in its margin atthe opposite sides of the, fore art, and. includinga toetip and box toe st-i ,eningmateriah is. mounted on a presenter 4 provided withupturned ends.

" pins which! engage the upper in.t.he-.jig

7 h l s the seo fthepresenter the upper s. positioned, as: illustrated. in. Fig. 2, ex act last may" next be contracted, or broken by the useof appapredetermined relation to" mechanism 7 for molding the toe substantially to the shape desired for the finished shoe, the pins 6'entering slots Sformed in wiperslO to determine the position of theupper lengthwise, laterally and angularly.v In addition to the wipers, the toe-molding means comprises clamp members 12 which clamp the margin of the upper outspread iipohthe wipers, grippers-l l whieh grip the upper at the opposite ends-of the tip seam,

an inner-form ormol'd 16, outer form or toe rest 18 complementary-in shape form 16-by downward movement engages the toe of the upper while the latter iscontrolled; by the clamp members12 and the grippers] 14 and' presses its intermediateportion down on theouter form 18, and; thereafter both the members lby and 18- are moved downwardly together while the upper is wiped up: about the form 16'by the action of. the band- 20, the

margin of the upper slipping as requiredrbe- I tween the clamp members 12 and the-wipers I and the grippers. ldswinging, toward each other inresponse to. thepull of the upper while maintaining 'a. firm hold on the upper at thexends of the tip seam.- Thereafter the;

' wiperslO are moved inwardlygto Wipe the marginof the upper over the bottom faceiofthe form 16v and thus to mold'an inturned V I flange thereon .as shown in F i-g. 3', the clamp: '1 shows the shoe with its molded toe members 12 and the grippersle releasing the I thus molding the toe except as the parts are herein modified for,

McKay shoe work, is more fully shown. and

described and. is claimed in Letters Patent.

Nos- 1,692,284 and 1','Z06,474,fgranted respectively on November 20,1928 and March 6,:

1929-11 3011 applications of William C. Baxter;

It-Will' be observed that thejig holes 3 in the margin of the forepart of the upper,

6, are located in the vamp at the rear of the I of the tip in relation to thevamp andin= which'the tip, while located. with suflic'ient accuracy lengthwise and angularly' on the vamp may through negligence be somewhat ofiset laterally. By' the use of jig holes formed inthe, vamp at the rearof the tip line and bearing, therefore, an accurately predetermined relation to the throat of the vamp; the molded toe; will be properly lo,-

cated relatively to; the-throatxoztthe vamp notwithstanding any error that there' ma-y belin the positioning ofthentip laterally of among others, inthis mode of procedure is that it provides for positioning uppers of different. sizes or styles' in proper relation to the toe-molding means-where it is desired,

as it may. be in McKay shoe work, to use the same Wipers for two or more sizes or styles in combination with different molds or forms corresponding to the respective sizes or styles. Under those conditions it is desirable that the different forms be so mounted that'their front end faces will bear the same relation to the edges of the wipers and will, therefore, be located at the same distance from the slots 8 inthe wipers which determine the posi- .tions of the 'jig'pins 6; and by locating the viding the vamp: dies with suitablepunches;

' jig holes in the dilferentuppers at the same distancefrom the extremities of the toes'the latter .arepositioned, as'they should be, in

the same relation. to the end faces of the different. forms. Where the distance between the'tip-line and theextremity of the toe varies in different. sizes or styles, the distance between the jighOlesand the tip line will correspondingly vary. The jig holes may be I formed in the vampafter. the tip has been stitched to the vamp,orthey may be formed in thevamp dieing-out: operation by "pro- ,After theupper has been molded at its toe end, its heelwend is molded andzis fastened permanently to an insoleby the use, for .ex-

ample, are. machine of thesame general type 5 as that described and claimed in LettersPat- 'ent No. 1,700,970, granted on February 5, i 1929 uponan applicationof William C. Baxter, with modifications further,.-describediand claimed in Letters. Patent 'No;./1,710,161, granted upon our application on April 23, 1929. Portions .ofthe machinewsutficient to illustratethe operations-performed are shown I the lacing slit and i Figs't and 5.- l The upp is mountedxupm a heel end-form 22 and istensioned forwardly about the form to hold it in proper position and to stretch it somewhat lengthwise by means of a gripper comprising jaws 24 and 26 which grip the upperat" the rear of its moldedjtoe portion in .a location'in front of the 'molded shape..-.Before operating the I gripper to tension the upper forwardly, the

operator adjusts the upper-about the form so that its back seam is inthe proper posi tion and so that its margin extends the prop er distance above the bottom face of the form. Thereafter an insole 28 is positioned with its heel end upon the form22and-is pressed back molded toe, and heel ends .tance apart, and as herein done by inserting in the shoe a hinged last '48, of a typesuch" as commonly used in shoe pull it without impairing T 86. In the molding operation the band 34' closes about the form 22, and the Wipers 36 are operated to wipe the margin of the upper materials inwardly over the insole. Thereafter the clamp member '32 is Withdrawn from clamping. position, and tacking mechanism 38 is moved into position over the form andisoperated to drive. a pluralityof heel seat tacks 4.0 (Fig. 6) to fasten the heel end of the upper to the insole substantially as far forwardly as the molding extends.

The toe end of the insole isnexttucked inwardly under the inturned flange of the molded toe end of the upper, and this flange is fastened permanently to. the insole by driveing a plurality of vtacks42. This tacking operation may be efiected'by the use ofany for example 7 suitable machine or mechanism, a tacking machine of the Boston type provided with a tack nozzle 44. and a suitable along the sides of the toe as the tip "line, or

as far rearwardly as the toe moldingis'effective in permanently shaping the upper materials. It will be observed that at this stage in the operations the intermediate portion of the insole is somewhat curved or bowed, thus allowing for subsequent length-- wisejstretching of the upper.

The next operation'is to subject theiupper to lengthwise tension and to position the at the proper disillustratedthis is manufacture,'and straightening the last. To do this conveniently, the last may be mounted upon a, spindle and the upper pulled into place on the forepart of the last andover the heel end portion while the last is inv a broken? or contracted condition; This insertion of the last in the shoe may best be, effected withthe upper in an unlaced condi- 1 tion, and preferably the last is also straight-- ened to stretch the upper to some extent while it is still unlaced, as illustrated in Fig. 7.

To permit the upper then to be laced readily and effectively, it is preferable to break the last and thus relax the tension of the upper, and this may conveniently be doneby the use of a device such as shown in Fig. 8, comprising a spindle 50 upon which-the heel end.

of the last is mounted with the forepart of the upper facingupwardly and. forwardly toward the operator, and a treadle-operated arm 52which engages the bottom of the fore part ofthe shoe andxby pressure thereon serves tobreak the last, as will be :readily understood. The operator then laces. the upper by the use, for example, of a wire lacer 5d of a well-known type. He then releases thetreadle-operated arm 52 and straightens I the last againby pressure applied to its forepart beforeremoving it from the spindle 50..

cated substantially between the molded toe- In. this second straightening of the last the upper is further stretched due to the fact that it has been laced. By thus stretching the: upper: successive stages through straight eningof the: last before and after lacing repractice I herein illustrated, is divided into two'stages; Theshoe is'first subjected to an operation which is somewhat in thenature of a pulling-over operation, whereby that portion ofthe margin of the upper which is 10- portion and the ball line is grippedand pulled at the opposite sidesof the shoe simultaneous-- ly and is then fastened to the insole in these locations. In this- 'manner' the upper is stretched laterally and is tightlyconformed 'tothecontour of the last between the tip line and the'throat of the vamp, particularly over the top of the forepart at the rear of the toe where'there might be danger otherwise that the upper would bridge the hollow of the last between the'toe and the instep by reason of the lengthwise tension previously applied thereto. By pulling simultaneously at the opposite sides danger is avoided of distorting the upper-or of displacing it on the last by such a hard pull as may be needed to conform ittothe contour of the last atthe top ofthe forepart. For subjecting the shoe to this treatmentthere may be utilized a pulling-over machine of a well-known type such as illustrated in Letters Patent'No. 1,029,387,

granted on J une 11, 1912- upon an vapplication of'R. F. McFeely, so modified as to dispense .with the toe gripper and tacker' and to pro vide in placethereof a toe end abutment 56 (Fig.10 ),and 'provided' also with opposite sidegrippers 58" (only one of which is shown in Fig. 10) eachhavinga single pair of jaws I60'for gripping and pulling the upper in the required locations. It may be desirable under some conditions that oneat least of the grippers have a; component of movement'lengthwise ofthe' shoe-in its updrawmovement, and.

forfthis purpose there-is: adjustably secured:

shoe "work.

by meansofa pivot pin 59 to each of the grip-i pers a grooved member 61 which is slidably" connected to a guide member 63 adjustable with the member .61 about the pivotpin 59.

It will be understood that in the updraw movementof the gripper the member 61 slides I along the member 63, and by suitable adjust= ment of the parts'about-the. pivot pin 59 the gripperimay thus be made to receive, in're.

sponseto itsjupdraw movement, a component of movementforwardly toward the toe or;

rearwarclly towardthe heel, or may be opment lengthwise of the shoe. It has been found that under someconditions the best results are secured by'an adjustment where by the gripper at'the inner side of the shoe is moved forwardly toward the toe in thev upper-pulling operation while the gripper at the'other side of the shoe receives no movement lengthwise of the shoe; After the upper I eratedwithoutany such component of move has been pulled. at the opposite sides simultaneously, as illustrated, and has been wiped inwardly overthe insole, tacks 62 (Fig. 11):

are driven by tacking mechanism with which machines-of this type are providedto fasten the upper to the insole. As'herein illustrated, the upper is thus fastened three tacks at each side, the foremost't'ack being driven at or near the tip line and theirearmost tack but little, if any, infront of the 'ball lineof the shoe. It will be'understood that these tacksare fully drivenand' are clinched unon the anvilplates of the last.

The side lasting is now completed bythe use, for example, of a lasting machine of the 1 well-known hand method type', comprising upper? gripping andpulling' mechanism 64' and overwiping'and tacking mechanism 66' (F'igrIQ). Thereafter the shoe is completed inthe usual manner characteristic of McKay It'is tobe understood that, various'novel and useful aspects, the invention is not limited to the use of apparatus or machinery ofthe particular character herein illustrated as" convenient for carrying out the various steps of the'methodnor, except as required by the claims, to method stepsv carried out in the 1 parti'cu'larorder in which they are described or of the particular character-illustrated.

Having described the invention and set forthifully'how the method may be'practised,

what we claim as new and desire to secure by Letters, Patent of'the United'States is That improvement'in methOds ,ofmaking shoes which consists in'molding the toe and heel ends of an upper offthe last sub stantially to'the shape desired for the finished shoe and to form-at each end a fiangeforuse in fastening the upper to an insole, stretching the upper-lengthwise between its-toe and he'eltendswhile molding its heel end, fastening e'ach of the moldedend portions of the.

upper permanently to an insole by a row 0t i fastenings spaced at ';short intervals: all

I around the end of the upper substantially ing thev sides of the shoe between i l enzient:in methods ofniale ing-.s shoes which ,consistsifn: moldingtthe toe end ofanupperoff the :last substantially to fthe shape desired for'the finished shoe, moldingthe heel end of the upper off'thelast while sub ecting the upper to lengthwise tensiona between; its toe andheelu end portions, and

fastening theiupper at the heelendto an in Sole, then, fastening the 'molded toe, end I of l thelupper to the insole by-permanent fasten- 'ingsapplied around the toe substantially as shape desired for'the finished shoe with inings extending around the ends and along the end of an upper 01f the last substantially to far rearwardly as the tip line, thereafter in- L serting a last in the shoe andstretching the upper lengthwise by engagement ofthe last a with the ymoldedtoe andheel ends of'theupsc per, :andl'after' said stretching of the upper; lastingythelsides of the-.fshoe between the molded toe and heel end portions; 1 I

I That improvement in methodsof makan upper olf' the last substantiallyt'o the turned flanges formed-to lie'over the margin 9 of; an insole, fastening said inturned flanges at the molded toe and heel ends of the upper permanently toan insole by rows of fasten- .sidesofthe shoe substantially as far'as the molded portions extend and clinched inside of the shoe, thereafter stretching the upper lengthwise by relative movement of parts of an expansible last in engagement with the Q molded toe and heel ends of the upper,.and-

after said: stretching of ithe'upper lasting the sides of the shoe. a

That improvement in methods of ma k- 7 ing shoes which consists in molding the toe end of an upper off the last substantially to Y theshape desired forthe finished shoe, mold-3v '50.

ingtheheel end of the upper whilesubjecting the upper to lengthwise tension between its toe and heel end portions and fastening the 7 heel end of the upper to an insole, fastening I themolded toe end of the upper'to the insole '55" by permanent fastenings inserted around the endand along the sides of the toesubstan- 'tially "as far rearwardly as the molded portioneXtends, thereafter stretching the upper lengthwise by relative-movement 'of parts of an expansible last, and after thus stretch inglthe upperlasting the sidesof the shoe between; the toe and heelendpbrtions.

5. That improvement inmethods of making shoes whichconsists in molding the toe ing shoes'of the.McKay-sewed type which" consists in molding the, toe and heel ends of the shape desired for thefinished shoe, molding the heel end of the upper oil. the last while subjecting the upper to lengthwise. tension by 'a pull applied ina location farther forward than the lacing slit, thereafter subject: ing the upperto further lengthwise tension bylrelative movement of partsof anlexpansible last, and after thus tensioning theupper' lasting the sides ofythe shoe between the toe and heel end portions. i I 6; That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in molding the toe end of an upper off the last substantially to the shape desired for the finishedshoe, subject-v ing the upper to lengthwise tension by engaging itat the heel end'and at the forepart in a location farther forward than the'lacing slit before a last is inserted, thereafter subjecting the upper to further lengthwise tenslon by relative movement of parts" of an expansible last, and after thus tensioning the upper lastingthe sides of the shoe. 1 -v A 7. That improvement in inethodsofmaking shoes which consists in stretching anupper lengthwise and also moldingzthe toe end of the upperoif the last substantiallyto the shape desired for the finished shoe and to form a flangefor use in fastening the upper to an insole, fastening the molded. toe portion ofthe upper permanently to an'insole by a rowof fastenings, spaced at 'shor'tintervals all around the toe substantially through out the length of the molded flange, thereafter inserting in the shoe an expansible last and further stretching the upper lengthwise by relative movement of parts of the last, and afterthus stretching the upper lasting the sides of theshoe:

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes of the McKay-sewed type which consists in molding the toe of an upper off the last substantially to the shapedesiredfor' the-finished shoewith an inturned flange formed to lie over the margin of aninsole and before the last is inserted driving a row of tackslabout the toe substantially as far rear wardly as the tiplineto fasten said flange permanently to aninsole and clinching the tacks inside oftheshoe, thereafter inserting alast in the shoe and stretching the upper lengthwise by engagement of the last with the opposite ends of the upper, and after thus stretching the upper lastingthe sides of the 9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in molding thetoe and heel ends of an upper off the last substantially to the shape, desired for the finished shoe, mounting the upper on a last and stretching it lengthwise by engagement of the last with its molded toe and heel ends,

pulling theupper over the forepart of the last at'the rear of the molded toe atthe opposite sides of thelast simultaneously and fasi I tening it,: and-ythereafterlasting-the sides of ing, it to the -insole,'and thereafter lasting.

the' sides of the shoe at the rear of: the fore-F 1 i paneling the last before th'e'upper islaced to the shoe'at the reariof the forepart.

210. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists-in molding thextoe v and'h'eel ends ofan upperv off the last sub-. stantially' to the shape 'desired..forathe' ished shoe, .fastening the. molded toe and heel endsoj: theupper to an insole substan--' tially 1 as far along the sides of the shoe as" the molding extends, thereafterstretching. the upper lengthwise by engagement of a last with its molded toe and heel ends, pulling the longitudinally stretched upper over ..-the

forepartof thelast at the rear of the molded toeat the opposite sides of the last 'simulta-r a y and fastening. it to the insole, and he e sting the sides'of the shoe at the rearof"theforepart; 1 z

,- 11. iT-hat iniprovement 1n methods oif mar fing shoes which consists in fastening the'toe andhee'l 'end'srof an upper es the lastto an.

insole While lleaving the sides of the upper between the toe and heel end portions; unfastened, inserting. a last in the shoe, pulling; the uppersover'the toreparltfof therlastatlthe rear offlits toe "endportion at the 'oppositesides of the. lastsimultaneously-and Ifasten part5 12; That improvement in methods of -rnak-v ing shoes which .consists in molding the toe andheel ends ofian'upper ofi' the last sub,-. stantially to the shape'desired forthe finished. shoe, fasteningit he molded toe" and heel endsofthe upper ofi the last .to Jan. insole, insert ing a last in the shoe, grippingand pulling the upper simultaneously at its opposite sides in locationsbetween. the molded toe and the shank and fastening; it to the insole inthesel locations, and thereafter lasting. the sides. -;of

theshoe in theshank.

13. That. improvement in methods o'fmaii f ing-sh-oes which consistsin molding the 1106i and heel ends ot-an upper 0d the .last sub-.-

stantiallyto the shape ,desiredgfor the sfin-i ished shoe, fastening the molded toe and "heel;

ends. ofthej'upper toan. insole, pulling the upper over the forepart of a last at the rear oft-he molded toe atthe opposite sides of the last simultaneously while drawing the upper at one side forwardly towardthe toeend of I thellast and 'fasteningthe upper in these lo-i cations to the'insole, and thereaftenlasting v'.-- '-the sides of the shoe at the rear of the fore- 14:. That improvement inm'ethfo'ds 'ofmakiiIig shoes which consists in molding th t 'o'fan upper off the last substantially to the shape desired forthe 'finished'shoe and before the last is inserted iastenin'gthe molded-toe permanently to an insole substantially a's far 'rearwardly as the tip line, inserting a last'i n. the sho -pulling the upper overthe' forepart L of the last at .the rearof themolded toe and fasteningiit at the .oppositewsid'es toythe i-n- Y sole, and thereafterlasting" thesides of the shoe-at the-rearof. the :forep'art; I

: l5; That improvement. n methods of mak; ing shoes which consists 'inshaping the toeand heels-ends of'an upper and fastening them permanently to ansinsole, pulling the 7 upper over-.Ial-ast at the. oppositesides of the forepart simultaneously at the" rea-r: of the previously shaped and fastened toe end por-l tio'n's to. theii.nsole, and thereatterlasting the sidesofthezshoe at the rear for the'forepart. g

$16. That improvement iinmethods of. maktension on the upper and lacing. the; upper,

t-ion iandgj ast'eningz the uppercin these' looa-i i V and thereafter expandingthe tast again" and proceeding with'the manufacture ofthe shoe". I

.117. That improvement in methodsiof makingsh'oesxwhichconsistsinl'moldingtthe toe and heel; :ends oi upp en ofiithelast-sub stantial-ly' tothe shape {desired for the 1 finished shoe, fastening the molded toe and heel ends of the upper. oh" the slR'St to {an insole, Linsert-in-g in thesho'e 'an'ez qaansible last and ex;-

stretch the upper lengthwise, then contracting the last. and lacing the upper, and thereafteriexpanding. the last againtostretch the.

last in: a: shoe and straightening it to stretch the upper; loef'ore it is laced, and thereafter breakingflthe last; lacing the upper, and

straightening the last again.

19.- Thatimprovement'in m'ethodsof mak-x ing shoes which consists in i-niolding. the toe? end of an upper off the last substantially to the shape desired for the .fini'sh'ed shoe,

mounting the upperon'a last and stretching it lengthwise by engagement of the last with 1 its toe. andheel ends, pulling the upper 'overf I thelforepart of the'last at the. rear of the molded toelat'the opposite sides of the last' simultaneously and fastening it, and there-Q after lasting the sides of theshoe at the rear of the torepart. v l

; I20. That'inrprovementrin methods bfmakin-gshees which consists in stretching an up-: per lengthwise by a forwardpull applied at its for epart while shaping its heel" end 'portion'to the :contour required for theefi-nished shoe, thereafter. further .-stretching the up.

per-by: relativeinoverhent of'the parts of a:

two-part "last within the shoe, and; after the", stretching-oi the upper by the sides of theshoe.v a H .2 1. That improvement inmethods of-ma'kin}; slices. whichcons'ists instretching an upthe-last lasting per lengthwise by a forward pull-applied at its forepart While shaping its heel end portion, 'off'thelast, over a form, fastening the heel end of the up'perto an insole While continu'ing the forward pull on the upper, thereafter further stretching the upper by rela- 1 tive movement ofthe parts of a two-part last within the shoe; and after the stretching; of the upper by the last lastingthe sides the names to this specification.

shoe. 7

In testimony whereof We have signed our JosEPH GOULDBOURN,

FRED HICKS. o 

